Aula de Portugues, One Month, English Video, Rapha's Birthday

And so week four coverage begins! And sorry guys, no pictures in this one. Just words.

Sunday night Mae said that she talked with the AFS coordinators about a Portuguese class to help us exchange students learn Portuguese. It takes place at the school of Elif and Laura, and every Monday and Wednesday at 12:00 I've been leaving school and going to this class.

Problem was, Mae didn't have the time to drive me 30 minutes across the city, and Pai worked. So what did I do? What kind of transportation do they have in the city?

And if you guessed Subway, you are so wrong. Buses, baby. Fast, crazy, dirt-cheap, big, fat, wonderful blue buses. All the way.

The Portuguese class started at 1:30, so I had reason to leave school by noon and hightail it back to the apartment, wolf down some lunch, get changed and prepared and then hightail it to the nearest bus station and hope I got there before 12:30 so I wouldn't have to wait for the next bus.

The bus is an interesting experience. When you finally do get on the bus, you have to do it quickly so the door doesn't close on your leg, and you have to grab onto something so when the bus moves (which is when the door is halfway closed, mind you) you don't go flying somewhere or fall on the floor and scream (not, by the way, that this has ever happened to me. Ever.). Then you pay your R$2 and try to find a seat, and if you can't find a seat, you stand. You should approach the front of the bus a stop or two before your actual stop, because otherwise you will not make it off in the provided 5-second time frame and will need to get off on the next stop. Once again, not that this has ever happened to me.

We went over basic stuff - the alphabet, the two "to be" verbs, how to say where you're from, etc - before class ended at 3:00. I liked it because it was very personal help and included a lot of speaking practice, something I needed.

Each class we got more and more advanced and did more speaking, and we reviewed everything we learned previously and went on to learn states of being, nationalities, and prepositions, as well as random words. Having a Portuguese teacher that doesn't speak much English is actually really good, although sometimes I had to resort to French to understand her. (Ah, French, you haven't failed me yet!)


This weekend was my one month of arrival in Brazil! I had very mixed feelings. On one hand, I was happy to reach this milestone, and on the other hand, it was a total, "yikes, only 10 more months to go!" The day was an emotion high.

That Friday was actually a day where Joao invited me over to his complex (Rapha tagged along) to play soccer and meet some of his friends. When speaking to me, the guys mostly spoke English, although I tried my best to answer in Portuguese and understand what they were saying when they weren't speaking directly to me. I told them Westminster had about 8,000 people, and they asked me if I lived on a farm. Thanks guys. They were a pretty chill group of kids, though. I liked them.

That Friday was also the day where Bella was released from the hospital. She was having respiratory problems.

Saturday, I left to walk to Alana's house to work on a film for our English project. We did a film on the Powerfuff Girls, and it's probably one of the funniest things I've ever done in my life. I'll post a link to the Youtube video once it's up, I promise.

Around 9:00 Pai came around and picked me up, I changed, and I went down the block to Rapha's birthday party, which also tripled as Bella's going-away party and my birthday party.

It started at 10:00, and I really struggled to keep my eyes open. (I was exhausted, and I didn't understand anything. This generally makes people even more tired.) and went home around 12:30. It was too late to try to understand Portuguese or even party. My lame parties in the US lasted until 11:00 - and that was really late - before it was time to go home. Reportedly, this one lasted until...much later.

Note to self: power nap needed before parties.

Beach House, Coming Out, Pipa, Natal, School, and Survival Orientation

Gah, I haven't been updating this as much as usual. At the time of writing this, I am two days into week seven (I know, seven weeks, already?). This covers weeks three and four. Also, muitas palavras. You have been warned.

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Saturday morning Rapha had a friend over, and we went down to the soccer cage and played a game called gol a gol, where the cage is split down the middle and each person plays both the role of goalie and offensive person. Barefoot. It's very simple, but actually pretty challenging, and it works both on aiming the ball and defending.

Is that not a beautiful staircase?

Later that day we went to a beach house...it's Mae's uncle's. Here are some of my favorite pictures that I took: 

Two beats, side-by-side

The house and backyard

The trees in Brazil are generally friendly

Bella and Rapha in the pool

It's symbolic of something, right? ;P

I can just imagine an old couple sitting in these chairs,
remembering the old days by the ocean...

I enjoy the beautiful simplicity of this picture

Out of the barren sand springs life....

Do you see the stairs?

Dead fish! :D 

Stretching to reach the horizon

A praia é muita bonita....

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That following Monday, I took a big step in my transition process: I came out to my classmates. 

The attitudes towards gay people in Brazil are so much different than they are in the US. In the States, there's a stigma with being gay - you can't be gay and do this and you're expected to act a certain way and talk a certain way and walk a certain way and there is this cultural misunderstanding that gay people are fundamentally different from other people.

There's brain research and digit-ratio theory and the like, but that's just biological. That's the difference between me and my sister. We look different. I'm a boy, and she's a girl. Her skin is darker than mine. I'm older than her.

Remember AFS's golden rule: It's not better, it's not worse, it's just different.

And so therefore, we should treat it the same.

In my region, the Northeast, I've been told that there's something called machoismo, which is best described as the idea that a man should be, well, macho. Prove his manliness. I have encountered little of this.

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We had Friday off for Student's Day, and Monday off for the Patron Saint of Fortaleza, so it was a long weekend. My family took me to Natal.

Natal is another major city in the Northeast, although its not as large as Fortaleza. Because it's about a 7-hr car ride, and because the Brazilian countryside is sparsely populated (thereby creating a monotonous landscape), people usually go by plane, but, because I am not made out of money, we went by car.

For the first few days, we actually went to a beach called Pipa. The beach is called as such because when the Portuguese arrived, they saw a rock that looked like a barrel, and in Portuguese word for barrel is pipa, so it was called Pipa. I get the feeling that, in general, European explorers are not creative. Newfoundland? Iceland? Cape Horn?

But, regardless of their names, Pipa and Natal were a lot of fun. We went to the Praia de Amor (literally Beach of Love...it's named because the waterline at the shore dips in the center, so it looks like the top of a heart), but first we had breakfast. 

There. Were. Monkeys. I kid you not, there were adorable little monkeys that would come to eat the scraps people left at the tables. They let us get close, and consequently, we snapped dozens of photos. They didn't care. They wanted our food.

Mae's friend from Natal, Kelva, came to visit us at Pipa. She brought her husband, Aldaberto, her son Filipe, his girlfriend, another boy named Leo who is the son of another of Mae's friends that lives in Brazilia (the capital), and Leo's girlfriend. Kelva also has another son, Pedro, but he couldn't come. Both Leo and Filipe were in college. Pedro is in his last year in HS, although he's two years older than me. In Brazil, when people go on an exchange year (as both Filipe and Pedro did...to Austria and Germany, respectively), they have to repeat whatever year they missed. This is due to the structure of the Brazilian school system. 

My Portuguese was improving to the point of being able to hold a simple conversation, so I spoke with Kelva and Leo's girlfriend, as they spoke very little English. Filipe would sometimes speak to me in English just to help out - he's actually an AFS volunteer in Brazil, and he's gone through the exchange program, so he's another great resource for me. 

Eventually, we decided to go off in search of food. Well, let me tell you, there weren't actually any roads, so we went full-out 4-wheel terrain. Jeep style. It was bumpy and sometimes painful, but definitely fun. Eventually, we reached a small brook that was too deep for us to cross. We parked, and everybody got out of the car. At first, I didn't quite understand what was going on, because we started to move. But then I figured out that we were on a raft. Ah. Understanding abounds.

After spending the night in Kelva's house, we left Natal Monday morning after breakfast and spent the rest of the day travelling back to Fortaleza and sleeping. It was a weird experience - coming back. I'd never really though of the city as "home" until then, but somehow driving into the city and by familiar roads was reassuring.

I expected the transition from suburban life to city life to be really unsettling, but I suppose my brain got overloaded pretty quickly and didn't have any trouble with that. Good job, brain.

Me, Rapha, Jeanne, Carlos, Bella

They says that the Northeast of Brazil has some
of the most beautiful beaches in the world

There were monkeys during breakfast! Isn't is adorable?

Yes, I took a picture of the sign

Actually not posing for me!

Got distracted...

Dropped his food...

They stayed like for that a good three minutes.
Staring contest. Ghost Crab vs. Stray Dog

More of the monkeys! I really liked them.

See the baby monkey?

It was rainy, but still beautiful

Eating lunch in Natal

These outfits are traditional cowboy outfits from the
Northeast. They kind of resemble our cowboys.

Rapha's face! Pfft.

Me, Aldaberto, Filipe, Kelva, Pedro, Bella, Rapha

See how high the water is?

Leo and his girlfriend

Then I started my third week of school. School was becoming more comfortable; I was beginning to know know the people in my class not only by face, but also by name.

This week, I spent a lot of time with a girl who lived in Germany. She was very nice and eager to learn about me and show me about Brazil. She gave me my first insight into saudade, the Brazilian word of an insatiable longing. There is no such translation in English. She was also very good at helping me with Physics. (In English? I can do it. In Portuguese? Gimme a rain check.) Thank-you.

That Friday night we had our AFS Survival Orientation...the one we were supposed to have right after we got here. Way to go, AFS Brazil! (No, in reality, the current AFS President was abroad in Canada and that left the local committee a little slow.) The meeting started at 7:00, but I didn't get there until about 7:15 (for social gatherings in Brazil, Bella explained, it's not the norm to be on time). Thus, only Alex (the boy from Germany) was there. Laura (the girl from Italy) and Elif (the girl from Turkey, who flew down the night we got here) were staying with the same family due to extenuating circumstances, and they arrived twenty minutes after I did. Then our Orientator (that is now a word, just fyi) showed up ten minutes later at 7:45, so we "officially" started the meeting (not that we didn't already talk about relevant material before her arrival). Two of the volunteers/counselors get there later. 

The meeting was conducted in English, since everybody spoke some. There were only four of us exchange students, one visiting returnee (from Germany), and the volunteers. I found the meeting very useful (and funny. "Why do you think you're here?" "To learn how to survive...? Cue rolling of eyes.) and I left with some new ideas and an actual focus of why I was where. What did I hope to achieve - did I have a "bucket list"? What constitutes an unreasonable expectation? Why did I come? What do I hope to learn, and what can I give to Brazil? What do I want to take back to the United States? 

I have a bucket list, and I am constantly adding things to it, but so far here are some of my favorite things - 

- Take a gringo day around the city

- Fail a class (I figured it's a good life experience, right? Then I can say I did it.)

- Learn how to dance to Samba and Forro

- Dream in Portuguese

Next time, I'll cover the next two weeks until I catch up to the present.

Jake

The First Week

So, remember how I was saying that my blank stare was becoming my most popular look?


"Como foi o vol?" Mae asked me. She kept repeating it until I used my French skills to guess what she meant. Como sounds like comment, vol sounds like voler, I know that o was an article, and I went out on a limb and guess what foi was went or something like that. And somehow, I was right. So I passed the first test. By the skin of my teeth.


We left the airport (Pai [pronounced like pie] went back to work) and I was treated to a first-hand show of how Brazilians drive. Mãe [which is Mom in Portuguese - Jeanne said just to call her Mãe (pronounced like my], and I had no qualms about doing so because it wasn't a word I had already associated anything with) was making all kinds of illegal turns and going the wrong way on one-way streets. And of course nobody wears seatbelts in the backseat, so the buckle was under the seat and I was in the middle holding on for dear life. 


It was fun.


Fortaleza (For-tah-lay-zuh) is a medium-sized city, with about 2.2 million people. Of course, to me it's gigantic, coming from the small Maryland town that I come from with anywhere from 6,000 to 10,000 people. I immediately had my country-boy complex, staring upwards at tall buildings and fighting the feeling of induced vertigo. Mãe and Bella talked about landmarks and important buildings as we passed them, but I wasn't really listening - partly because I was getting used to her accent, and partly because I was too enthralled by the tall buildings and all the new surroundings. 

View of my school from my bedroom window

We got to my apartment complex, which is right across the street from my school. That's a happy thought. 


Then I immediately shelled out some money for a uniform, which we got across the street at the school store. The changing room was kind of open, as it was just a curtain and rod and the curtain didn't go all the way across on either direction and yeah. Privacy is a luxury.


Then I Skyped my mother. It's so much cheaper than calling - if you have the option to do this, do it. It was then that I figured out that the time difference in Brazil from EST is one hour, except for during DST, in which Brazil is two hours ahead - I suppose Brazil decided that because it's a equatorial country, the change in the hour doesn't affect the time the sun rises or sets, so they just nixed it. Good thinking, Brazil. Way to not make your citizens lose an hour of sleep as soon as school starts. Ten points for being smart. ^^


Then we went for "dinner". I suppose they thought it would be a good idea to ease me into Brazil by giving me American food, so we went to a place called "The Burgers on the Table". I said that didn't make sense. Bella got mad (it doesn't need to, she said) and Mãe said that it made sense to them. I still held my position that it didn't make any sense. 


In hindsight, that was pretty obstinate of me.


Anyway, upon ordering I was surprised to find that the cost of a simple burger was anywhere from 16 to 20 reals (pronounced hay-eyes). Mãe explained that things in Brazil were more expensive than in the US even with the exchange rate. 


Awesome.


So we ordered and got drinks - they only had soda, which I didn't like, so I tried this new Brazilian soda called Guaraná. I decided I liked the flavor, but I don't like the carbonation, so I didn't drink much of it. During this time, Bella put the wrapper around her burger and began eating. 


Let me repeat. She put the wrapper around her burger and then began eating. 


I asked her, why are you doing that? In Brazil, she said, we generally don't touch our food with our hands.


Mind blown. Obviously, there's the unavoidable slip of the finger, but I couldn't process that. But, I got my sandwich and well, when in Rome...


After we finished, we went back to the apartment and I unpacked. Mãe had two gifts for me - a book with pictures of all the beaches of Ceará and a pair of flipflops with the Brazilian colors - green and yellow. They were a size too big, so Bella said she'd take me to get them exchanged tomorrow morning during the tour of the area that she was giving me.


I decided to take a shower, since I was in dire need of one. So I got in the shower and noticed a couple of key things:


1) The shower glass was entirely clear (so you lock the door...but what if you fall? Not likely to happen, but still : P)
2) There was no fan in the bathroom (but there was a window!)
3) There was no warm water (Mae explained that you didn't need a warm shower in Brazil)
4) The water smelled different (not bad! It just didn't smell metallic like the water I'm used to.)


Yay fun. The water was frigid, and it was probably one of the most difficult experiences of my life. I counted to three and forced myself to jump under, then died a little inside as my spinal cord tingled with the assailing pinpricks of ice. So naturally I jumped right out. However, I was wet enough, so I soaped and shampoo'd up, and then jumped back under to rinse off. The second time wasn't as bad, but it was still intolerably cold.


A few hours later, we hopped in the car and went to meet friends at a place called Coco Bambu. 

Bella, Me, Samuel (Lais's Brother, Lais)

When I was emailing my host family, Mãe said that she and Pai were really close friends with about six other families, so I joked that I'd have seven host families and not just one. We were going to meet two of those families. 

Lady Jane, Pai, Mae and Lais

Coco Bambu is a fancy pizza place/restaurant with the atmosphere of a beach hut...it was very tiki-tiki. Sand for a floor, wooden tables and chairs, you get the idea. Bella's best friend, Laís, was also there, and she was also fluent in English. Mãe said that she'd take it easy on me during the first weekend, but once school started (Monday D:) it'd be mostly Portuguese. 


I took the menu and immediately stared it down to see what I could comprehend. I'd like to say that I won against the menu and the Portuguese, but I lost, and that's kind of pathetic (especially since I knew I'd be here also a year ago...in hindsight, not a good decision). Bella and Laís helped me by translating different words. I decided on something called sucu de cajá to drink, and whatever pizza was ordered. 


The cajá juice was really good (sucu = juice) and sweet and kind of tasted like orange (laranja, also one of my favorite words to say). That wasn't so foreign. It was weird for me, of course - anything new tastes weird - but it wasn't so off the chart that it was difficult to register. It was comforting in the way that it was something my brain could put in the category of "beverages that taste like citrus". 

Lais doing...something

When the pizza arrived, though, I was shocked. Bella picked up her knife and fork and started eating. I sat there and stared in horror. Brazilians eat pizza with a knife and fork? Crime against humanity. Not really.


But when in Rome, do as the Romans, and I suppose I was a Roman from now on, so I gingerly picked up my knife and fork (the tines were different, I notes, and it was bent at a different angle...Rapha later explained to me that most Brazilian silverware was actually made in Brazil) and began cutting. I immediately noted, sadly, that the butterknife was much duller than the butterknives in the US. Who knew China actually knew what they were doing? Either that, or we didn't get sharper knives, for some logical reason unbeknownst to me.


Then came dessert, which I honestly don't remember. We kids spent the next 30 minutes (roughly) talking. In Brazil, eating is generally a social event, so people tend to linger. Restaurants don't mind, because it makes it look fuller and that's good for business (oh, a lot of people are here, it must be good! Let's try it!). I'm also a really slow eater, so I welcomed the prospect of not consistently being the last one left at the table.


Then we went home and I immediately went to bed. I conked out as soon as my head hit the pillow. 
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The next day I woke up early (7:00...it sucked) and lingered around the apartment (which isn't very large...minus the bedrooms and kitchen, the entire thing is only 10x12 paces. However, it was plenty big enough - you have to remember that this was my first experience with staying in an apartment building...I think I've only been in one apartment before) while I waited for Bella and Mãe to wake up. Mãe got up shortly after I did, but Bella took until about 9:30. 


How I wish I could have slept that long. 


We walked down Dom Luis, which is one of the four main avenues in Fortaleza, and was also 7 car lengths away from our apartment complex. Bella showed me placed to eat, shops, malls, churches, apartment complexes, schools, and the like. Coming from a town where nothing is higher than three stories and only one street is actually urbanized enough to have been called the market in colonial times, it was mind-boggling. My brain couldn't comprehend how much stuff was arranged within an eleven-block radius. 


Actually, I've only explored that eleven-block radius doing down Dom Luis. I know that one direction stops at the beach (8 blocks) and that the other side of Dom Luis turns immediately and goes into another section of the city which is more like a highway, but I haven't been down the fourth direction or the direction towards the beach. And at the time of writing this, I've been here for over a month!


Then we went to our beach house, which we spent the weekend at. It's about a half-hour drive from Fortaleza. The countryside of Ceára is very poor. We drove through cobblestone streets with large holes filled with water, past small huts and big, gated houses that people from the city like us lived in.


They house it self have me the impressing that it was mostly meant for sleeping in (there were four bedrooms, a kitchen/eating/TV room, and an auxiliary room off to the side), but there was a patio, a pool, a ping-pong table and several hooks for hammocks. 


Oh hammocks. My family in the US used to have a hammock, but it was made for Americans, I suppose (therefore it was an American hammock). The ropes were stretched in placed and it had a base - it didn't hang from hooks. My first experience with a Brazilian hammock (and I have no idea what a plain "hammock" is, so in the interest of being politically correct I'm just going to attach adjectives)? Slightly different. I sat down and immediately capsized, thus the entire hammock swallowed me up. Then I struggled my way out (which was much less difficult than I make it sound) and tried to find the center. Eventually, Mae took pity on me and showed me how to properly use a hammock.


We went to the beach (the sand was much finer) and I tried coconut juice (gross) and Brazilian crabs. They were very watery, but Mãe says they weren't that good compared to what Brazilian crabs are usually like. Whatever. Nothing beats the Maryland blue crab. 
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School was...fun. I went in with Mãe and they showed me what class to go in. When I opened the door, everybody turned to look at me. Like, who's the new kid? The person who escorted me explained and then everyone started at me wide-eyed and erupted into applause. Unnerved, I quickly took a seat next to the one person I already knew (we went to the movies the night before...she's the cousin of Bella's friend - her name is Alana). 


More on school later. 


Since I was already friends with Alana, I started to know some of the other girls. The other girl I was next to, Rebeca (heh-beck-uh), spoke very good English was was my go-to person. Behind me sat Sarah (something like sair-rlah), a girl who lived in Germany for the first ten years of her life and consequently spoke German, Portuguese and also had very good English. In front of me sat Amanda (ah-mahn-duh), a red-haired girl who also had good English and was, until I came along, the only lefty in the class. There was also Bea (Bee-uh), whose name I learned quickly because every time I glanced in her direction she pointed at herself, and another Bea who's very outgoing and also speaks very good English. There was one guy in the group, Augosto (uh-goosh-toe). In total, there are upwards of 44 kids. 


Around Wednesday one of the boys approached me (I wasn't feeling very social due to my lack of Portuguese-speaking) and introduced himself as João (similar to Joe-aun) and told me just to call him John. He spoke excellent English and said the rest of the guys were anxious to meet me. Well, then couldn't they come over themselves instead of sending a messenger? Ah, I'm so hypocritical. 


Raphael (hah-phai-el) came home Thursday night. His English isn't as good as Bella's but it's way better than anybody's at school. I'd go as far as to call him fluent. 


João asked me if I wanted to go watch soccer with him Friday night, so I went and met some of his friends and saw some of our classmates there. Not many people spoke English, so I just talked with him. But still, it was a start. 


I noticed that Brazilians are very friendly - I've read some of the other student blogs saying that exchange students didn't feel terribly welcomed into their communities. In this case, it was too much welcoming for me to handle - I've never been such the center of attention in my life. It was a little overwhelming. I'm glad that everyone was so happy and welcoming and open and willing to receive me, and I hope that I can leave Brazil with even better feelings than these. I might have to fight the immigration department about leaving too soon if this continues. Haha.


More later. 
Jake